2013 Jilly FIFO Margaret River Chardonnay

As with all his handmade wines so far, each bottle of Jared Dixon's 2013 Jilly FIFO Margaret River Chardonnay is numbered in a series, in this instance, of 780 bottles. Again with a cloth label as with the reds, but this time marbled to be denim/jeans/flying-clouds-like originally designed by the local, Kylie Bridges. The MR grapes are grown on gravel lime in Upper Wilyabrup. Unfined/unfiltered in French bottles, it's available at the Clunes Wine Store—or when dining at Harvest café, Newyrbar. Its aroma is possibly persimmon, fairy floss or bubble gum, because it has some sweetness, but coupled with some wood and pear. It opens up later with malt and honey, so I wouldn't serve this wine too chilled. On the palate it’s all citrus with something sweet underneath like vanilla, or a touch of malt here too. It’s therefore layered, textured, complex. Dry, minerally. From the bottle now it's not flirtatious or lulling. You have to be alert. It's alert. It would be good with food rather than a standalone drink, possibly with pesto, prawns or tout, or a light meat such as pork in a sweet and sour, with blood orange in a savoury or dessert. It will develop in the bottle, possibly with some 'warmth' and lusciousness.