Friday, November 21, 2014

2014 Jilly Lone Ranger Rosato

This is the second Rosé-style wine from emerging winemaker, Jared Dixon (of Clunes Cellars, Northern New South Wales coastal hinterland). His first was Vino de Noche, made from Tempranillo, left on skins overnight, basket-pressed the following morning, so not the sangee style,  but, rather, made in the ancient Roman tradition. The Rosato (Italian for Rosé) is from Dixon's favourite variety, Nebbiolo, grown in the ideal conditions of New England's Topper's Mountain vineyard, curated by viticulturalist Mark Kirkby. The Neb is left on skins for twelve hours and barrel fermented with the indigenous yeast populating Topper's Mountain. While Jilly comes from Dixon's paternal grandfather's lost love, a maid named Jilly, the 'lone ranger' series refers to small batch production: one barrel. All Jilly wines have a cloth-like wraparound label, the back-label information handwritten to support the 'handmade' quality of the wine. Already the 2014 has sold in quantity to specialist bottle shops in Australian capital cities, so not much is left in Clunes Cellars (Be quick!). The Rosato is bronze-highlighted, medium rosy-red in colour. A light sweetness finishes off the perfume which is characterised by roses and strawberries with an undertone of orange sherbet. The deep, luscious palate features dryness high on the long length. Dixon is interested in food-matching wines – having his drinkers think, 'I need ... to eat ... with this'. I'd recommend a yellow cheese and/or nuts, maybe some savoury popcorn or tart, or brioche with cherry or smoked tomatoes. Rather than a Chardonnay, or Dixon's new Semillon, this Rosato went well with pasta carbonara at chez nous. So this is a serious rosé for a business lunch, or cultural discussion.