Jared Dixon under his Jilly label has released an intriguing
new white: a 2015 New England Gewurztraminer and Petit Manseng, hand-picked and
destemmed, indigenous-yeast fermented. The most extraordinary colour, making
you think of medieval mead, a kind of dense honey that's also clear and golden,
with an hallucinatory bronzed-pink tinge. A mildly sweet perfume of jube, ripe
stone fruit, a fluffy yellow or golden velvet. A beautiful wine that is almost
like cordial; sophisticated and elegant. An adult wine, a wine for fantastically
imagined aristocratic celebrations – or a wine to serve really good and valued
friends to say that they are of value.
